Sunday, July 4, 2010

Cotopaxi- Smooth Neck of the Moon


Yesterday Morning at 1.30am my mission to climb Volcan Cotopaxi, the second highest peak in Ecuador, one of the highest active volcanoes in the world and one of the few equatorial glaciers in the world, commenced. Unfortunately my attempt unraveled at approx 5516m a mere 381m from the summit.
Having never attempted a glacial climb before I was still exceptionally happy with my attempt yet bitterly disappointed to have come so close but not reached the summit. The attempt was thwarted by a number of factors including, lack of appetite from the altitude which led to fatigue and a lack of experience in knowing what to expect. Communication difficulties with my guide who spoke only basic English also created problems. At 5516m I made the decision based on safety concerns that we should turn around. Despite everything it was a life changing experience, something I will never forget.
It all started on 2 June when I made the journey from Latacunga to Cotopaxi National Park- we parked the car at 4300m and made our way to base camp situated at 4800m. This required lugging all my gear including cold weather clothing, food and equipment such as crampons up a loose gravel route to the Base camp. The afternoon was spent acclimatising and doing some brief training in ice-snow climbing. This required a climb to 5000m where the ice and snow of Volcan Cotopaxi begins. Sahra was able to share this experience with me and was staying the night at base camp.
Despite trying to retire early to bed a dull persistent headache meant that I had little to no sleep before starting the ascent. At 1.30am we got underway but due to the altitude I found it difficult to take in food and water- at 5400m a moment of fatigue resulted in a trip which could have ended very badly. A short time later at 5516m I decided that in order to make it back safely I needed to turn around and start the 2 hour descent. I arrived back at base camp around 8.00am having missed the summit but avoided all the crevasses which are even more dangerous than they look- I hope the photos illustrate just how unforgiving the climb can be.

1 comment:

  1. Words are hard to express in writing at what we feel today. Your achievement is unsurpassed, although in saying that we only hope you have been able to capture inside yourself a feeling of contentment and utmost gratitude of what you have accomplished.

    Not only were you able listen to your inner voice but you were able to act upon it's advise. That decision alone without doubt has allowed you to conquer your own summit within.

    It is with great pride we send you our love
    xxxxxxxx mum and dad

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